The colors are a bit muted but I don't want to edit it until I have some natural light coming in (or until I can use the REALLY nice scanners in the art building) so I get them as accurate as possible. I used ink and watercolor on a watercolor block. I also used masking fluid on this one in order to get the sun all shiny. I'm going to add text in later. Eventually, I'm going to publish this so keep a lookout for it ^.^
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
the first of many
Here it is, the first page of the Hans Christian Andersen's "The Little Mermaid" adaptation graphic novel I've been working on. When it's done, it'll be 20 pages long and pretty different from the original. I'm not going to give too much away yet but I have 5 pages to show after this so stay posted.
The colors are a bit muted but I don't want to edit it until I have some natural light coming in (or until I can use the REALLY nice scanners in the art building) so I get them as accurate as possible. I used ink and watercolor on a watercolor block. I also used masking fluid on this one in order to get the sun all shiny. I'm going to add text in later. Eventually, I'm going to publish this so keep a lookout for it ^.^
The colors are a bit muted but I don't want to edit it until I have some natural light coming in (or until I can use the REALLY nice scanners in the art building) so I get them as accurate as possible. I used ink and watercolor on a watercolor block. I also used masking fluid on this one in order to get the sun all shiny. I'm going to add text in later. Eventually, I'm going to publish this so keep a lookout for it ^.^
Thursday, November 18, 2010
Timeline
It's about time I put this up. While being able to use the scanner was awesome, some compression or something happened during the saving process and all the colors got messed up. This was the best I could do to get it looking like the original. Looks like I might end up having to go to Kinko's after all. -.-
This was for a creative project in my History of Costume course about a year ago. I absolutely adored this class and this project. We had to combine costume history and our other academic interests so I set up my timeline as a sort of animation on a reflection of women's rights through history. Ancient Egypt through Greeks are both very submissive since women were given little to no rights then. In the Medieval times, women were slightly more elevated through religion because of a pious woman's relationship to the Virgin Mary, women saints, etc. Elizabeth I during the English Renaissance is the first to open her eyes and look forward to a more powerful role for women in society. The Georgian woman is turned away from progress but is looking ahead (since Humanism was gaining popularity but wasn't applied to women). The Crinoline period is what Americans consider the Frontier period as well which was a powerful time for pioneering women. In the Late Victorian era, women began to dress in styles inspired by men's clothing and it was becoming more acceptable for a woman to work. As much as I love the 50s, women definitely looked back at "the good ol' days" a little too fondly. Modern women are becoming so empowered that I had the final figure walk right off the page.
The figures are pencil, watercolor, and colored pencil and the background is metallic gold acrylic paint (stupid paige).
This was for a creative project in my History of Costume course about a year ago. I absolutely adored this class and this project. We had to combine costume history and our other academic interests so I set up my timeline as a sort of animation on a reflection of women's rights through history. Ancient Egypt through Greeks are both very submissive since women were given little to no rights then. In the Medieval times, women were slightly more elevated through religion because of a pious woman's relationship to the Virgin Mary, women saints, etc. Elizabeth I during the English Renaissance is the first to open her eyes and look forward to a more powerful role for women in society. The Georgian woman is turned away from progress but is looking ahead (since Humanism was gaining popularity but wasn't applied to women). The Crinoline period is what Americans consider the Frontier period as well which was a powerful time for pioneering women. In the Late Victorian era, women began to dress in styles inspired by men's clothing and it was becoming more acceptable for a woman to work. As much as I love the 50s, women definitely looked back at "the good ol' days" a little too fondly. Modern women are becoming so empowered that I had the final figure walk right off the page.The figures are pencil, watercolor, and colored pencil and the background is metallic gold acrylic paint (stupid paige).
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
Class Gallery Showing
I have another big (!) piece for the Body Mod series in the works but you'll have to wait on that. In the meantime, my Adv. Drawing course is working on our "Project of a project" series and we were given the chance to display our works in progress in the Colburn Gallery in Williams Hall. I set my space up as a storyboarding note-taking situation, sketching and writing notes on the wall next to my thumbnails and photocopies of the finished pages. As usual, I got a lot of slack for my work being illustrative (since when is that not "art" anyway?!) and for not being pretentious enough (I'm paraphrasing) but I'm proud of it so nyah nyah.
Not a whole lot there to look at, I know, but each one of those watercolored sheets takes between 6 and 10 hours to do so this project isn't exactly something I can crank out in a night.
P.S. HUGE news! There's apparently a large flatbed scanner in the Special Collections area of my college's library that I have complete access to! I think it deserves a visit as soon as possible.
Not a whole lot there to look at, I know, but each one of those watercolored sheets takes between 6 and 10 hours to do so this project isn't exactly something I can crank out in a night.P.S. HUGE news! There's apparently a large flatbed scanner in the Special Collections area of my college's library that I have complete access to! I think it deserves a visit as soon as possible.
Monday, November 8, 2010
New stuff ftw
Sooo for my Adv. Painting course we have to do a large painting. I was going to paint a canvas dress form which, after shipping would've cost close to $100. Ouch. I mentioned this in class and this wicked cool girl mentioned she just happened to have one she was trying to find a good home for. She also really likes the style of the Body Mod series, which is what this "canvas" is going to go along with. How swell is that!? The only difficult part of this scenario is that it is an adjustable dress form in my measurement range (WANT!) but I had to keep the goal in mind. I'm currently mid-gesso on that as I type. Pics to come.
I also (finally) replaced my tablet. I had an Wacom Intuos 3 but being stored in a damp basement was the death of it (I'm an idiot, I know) so I (after over a year of being tablet-less) went out and got the Wacom Bamboo Pen. It is lower on the Wacom totem pole but all things considered, I'm wicked happy with it. I joined Sumo Paint and doodled this Fullmetal Alchemist fanart in about 30 min.
I also (finally) replaced my tablet. I had an Wacom Intuos 3 but being stored in a damp basement was the death of it (I'm an idiot, I know) so I (after over a year of being tablet-less) went out and got the Wacom Bamboo Pen. It is lower on the Wacom totem pole but all things considered, I'm wicked happy with it. I joined Sumo Paint and doodled this Fullmetal Alchemist fanart in about 30 min.
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Lazy day
So, today has kinda been more about getting my series going again. For Adv. Painting we have to do something in a large format (no dimensions to speak of, just "large") so I'm looking into working directly on a dress form. We'll see. Here's are some sketches for new paintings. I picked up some new canvases today so I'll have plenty to work with.
I visited an old steam-engine ferry this weekend and got to look at the inner workings, which was awesome, so I doodled a crank shaft on there. I also want to do something with a corset ("'A Girdle to set you free!' What does that mean!?" - Mona Lisa Smile) and internal organs. The ear one is to juxtapose the cochlear implant and the arms are an example of prostheses as added convenience. I also have some pieces in the works that combine actual body modifications that are purely aesthetic (read: corset piercings :D) which will eventually lead to steampunk mods that are purely aesthetic.
I visited an old steam-engine ferry this weekend and got to look at the inner workings, which was awesome, so I doodled a crank shaft on there. I also want to do something with a corset ("'A Girdle to set you free!' What does that mean!?" - Mona Lisa Smile) and internal organs. The ear one is to juxtapose the cochlear implant and the arms are an example of prostheses as added convenience. I also have some pieces in the works that combine actual body modifications that are purely aesthetic (read: corset piercings :D) which will eventually lead to steampunk mods that are purely aesthetic.
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
Two-fer Tuesday
As promised, I'm posting the pieces that were on display but hadn't been posted yet. I think I'm going to go back in on both of these and do some lettering but maybe not. I apologize in advance on how awful the photography is. These look a lot better in real life.
The first one is one I posted the WIP of a few weeks back. The actual size is 18"x36", the largest of the series so far (but not the largest planned one. You'll see...)
Yup. Steampunk mermaid. I really wanted to do something way out there. I mean, if you were a legless marine biologist, wouldn't you want fins and gills? I tried to make it as practical as possible, though, since she would need to maintain neutral bouyancy (which means the tail would need to be weighted but also allow space for air to be reintroduced) and would need gauges (on her wrists) so she could keep an eye on her depth. This piece is 18"x~25".
The first one is one I posted the WIP of a few weeks back. The actual size is 18"x36", the largest of the series so far (but not the largest planned one. You'll see...)
Yup. Steampunk mermaid. I really wanted to do something way out there. I mean, if you were a legless marine biologist, wouldn't you want fins and gills? I tried to make it as practical as possible, though, since she would need to maintain neutral bouyancy (which means the tail would need to be weighted but also allow space for air to be reintroduced) and would need gauges (on her wrists) so she could keep an eye on her depth. This piece is 18"x~25".
Monday, October 25, 2010
How to Stretch Your Canvas
Before we get this ball rollin', be forewarned that this is going to be a HUGE picture post. With that in mind, all the thumbnails will be small and if you need to see them in better detail: click them.
So, you want to make your own canvas. This is a very good idea since it can be a lot cheaper making your own canvases and you have a lot more control over the quality of the end product. Eventually you may want to learn how to make your own stretcher bars and you might want to experiment with different fabrics but for the time being, let's just start with the basics.
Step 1: You're going to need 4 Stretcher Bars (make sure you have the same length for opposing sides), Canvas, a Staple Gun, Staples, a Chip Brush (inexpensive painting brush), a Hammer, Scissors, and some Gesso. Optional: T-Square, Sandpaper, or Drop cloth (as you can see, I use my rug.)
Step 2: Fit your stretcher bars together with the matching sides opposite one another. Loosely fit them together so you can continue to adjust them. To tighten them together, use the hammer to tap them into place. Make sure to maintain right angles as much as possible. This part is worth being a perfectionist over.
Step 3: Staple all the corners on the inside of the frame (this is the yucky side you won't see at all) and use the hammer to make sure the staples are as in the wood as possible. Any protrusions on this side of the frame may push against your canvas and give you an uneven surface.
Step 4: Cut a section of canvas from your stash so that you can place the frame in the middle and still have 1-2" border around all the sides. Sometimes it's easier to stretch the canvas taught when you have more excess to yank on.
Step 5: Pick one side and fold your excess in. Staple down this piece. I choose to staple the back down to give the sides a nice clean finish but some people prefer to staple the sides instead. Make sure all of your staples are a little loose in case you need to take them out to adjust them.
Step 6: Pull the canvas taught across the frame so you can staple the opposite side. You always want to staple in pairs so the canvas is as evenly stretched as possible. Start loose and tighten as you go. It's easy to go back and tighten one or two little areas than having to completely redo a side, especially when you get to larger and larger canvases. Just work from the middle out, from one side to another.
Step 7: Once you've stapled down all four sides, you can tighten the corners. This is where you want to pull in a lot of the slack since woven fabrics such as canvas are exceptionally elastic along the bias (diagonal).
Step 8: Once you've pulled up that extra, you're going to need to use a hospital fold to tuck it in before stapling. Since that is a tricky fold, you may want to check this other tutorial.
Step 9: Staple the heck outta those suckers and do the other corners. Once all the corners are down you can do a once-over and make sure the staples are in tight. Use the hammer to tap them down if needed, just be careful not to hurt your frame.
Step 10: Trim up the inside of the canvas to give it a nice clean look. This isn't necessary but it does look a lot more professional.
This is was the back of your canvas will look like when you've gotten to Step 10.
And this is what the front will look like. You'll know it's tightened enough if, when you flick it, it sounds like a soft drum.
To finish: You now want to scumble (brush on a light layer in every which way) a coating of gesso on. Watch out for holidays (areas that were missed and unpainted) since that will harm the quality of your canvas. One layer is enough for some people but I prefer to use a few layers. I also sand each layer once it has dried. This will give you a nice smooth surface. I also gesso the sides to give the finished canvas a nice clean look.
Please, let me know if this tutorial has helped you. If you have any questions for suggestions, don't be afraid to ask! ^.^
So, you want to make your own canvas. This is a very good idea since it can be a lot cheaper making your own canvases and you have a lot more control over the quality of the end product. Eventually you may want to learn how to make your own stretcher bars and you might want to experiment with different fabrics but for the time being, let's just start with the basics.
Step 1: You're going to need 4 Stretcher Bars (make sure you have the same length for opposing sides), Canvas, a Staple Gun, Staples, a Chip Brush (inexpensive painting brush), a Hammer, Scissors, and some Gesso. Optional: T-Square, Sandpaper, or Drop cloth (as you can see, I use my rug.)
Step 2: Fit your stretcher bars together with the matching sides opposite one another. Loosely fit them together so you can continue to adjust them. To tighten them together, use the hammer to tap them into place. Make sure to maintain right angles as much as possible. This part is worth being a perfectionist over.
Step 3: Staple all the corners on the inside of the frame (this is the yucky side you won't see at all) and use the hammer to make sure the staples are as in the wood as possible. Any protrusions on this side of the frame may push against your canvas and give you an uneven surface.
Step 4: Cut a section of canvas from your stash so that you can place the frame in the middle and still have 1-2" border around all the sides. Sometimes it's easier to stretch the canvas taught when you have more excess to yank on.
Step 5: Pick one side and fold your excess in. Staple down this piece. I choose to staple the back down to give the sides a nice clean finish but some people prefer to staple the sides instead. Make sure all of your staples are a little loose in case you need to take them out to adjust them.
Step 6: Pull the canvas taught across the frame so you can staple the opposite side. You always want to staple in pairs so the canvas is as evenly stretched as possible. Start loose and tighten as you go. It's easy to go back and tighten one or two little areas than having to completely redo a side, especially when you get to larger and larger canvases. Just work from the middle out, from one side to another.
Step 7: Once you've stapled down all four sides, you can tighten the corners. This is where you want to pull in a lot of the slack since woven fabrics such as canvas are exceptionally elastic along the bias (diagonal).
Step 8: Once you've pulled up that extra, you're going to need to use a hospital fold to tuck it in before stapling. Since that is a tricky fold, you may want to check this other tutorial.
Step 9: Staple the heck outta those suckers and do the other corners. Once all the corners are down you can do a once-over and make sure the staples are in tight. Use the hammer to tap them down if needed, just be careful not to hurt your frame.
Step 10: Trim up the inside of the canvas to give it a nice clean look. This isn't necessary but it does look a lot more professional.
This is was the back of your canvas will look like when you've gotten to Step 10.
And this is what the front will look like. You'll know it's tightened enough if, when you flick it, it sounds like a soft drum.
To finish: You now want to scumble (brush on a light layer in every which way) a coating of gesso on. Watch out for holidays (areas that were missed and unpainted) since that will harm the quality of your canvas. One layer is enough for some people but I prefer to use a few layers. I also sand each layer once it has dried. This will give you a nice smooth surface. I also gesso the sides to give the finished canvas a nice clean look.Please, let me know if this tutorial has helped you. If you have any questions for suggestions, don't be afraid to ask! ^.^
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